露西

Good enough is always better than perfection
只求“够好”,不求完美


FT专栏作家凯拉韦:任何疯狂到在工作中追求极致完美的人,都不是“善的力量”。这种执着伴随的是不为人知的黑暗一面。

For 75 years Jiro has been doing the same highly repetitive manual work.

75年来,二郎(Jiro)几乎一成不变地干着同样的手艺活。

Since he was about 10, this 85-year-old man has spent most of his waking hours arranging little pieces of raw fish on to compressed balls of sticky rice. You might think he’d have got tired of it by now.

二郎现年85岁,从10岁起,他便将大部分日常时间用来将生鱼片点缀在压紧的黏性饭团上。你可能会觉得他已经厌倦了。

But no: Jiro loves his job more than anything else in the world.

错了。二郎对这份工作的热忱无与伦比。

In Jiro Dreams of Sushi, David Gelb’s admiring documentary, we see the chef stare straight at the camera and say, with grim earnestness:

在大卫•贾柏(David Gelb)向二郎致敬的纪录片《寿司之神》(Jiro Dreams of Sush)中,这位大厨站在摄像机前,满脸认真地说道:

“I feel ecstatic every day. When I make sushi I feel victorious.”

“每天我都着迷不已。做寿司让我有胜利感。”

The film, with its lascivious shots of raw fish, is all about the purity of work. We are meant to think that Jiro is weird but wonderful. He obsesses over every scrap of fish.

影片用极致的镜头描写生鱼片,焦点集中于刻画工作的纯粹性。我们不禁觉得,二郎虽然古怪,但着实了不起。他对每片生鱼片都很着迷。

He hates holidays and is only absent for funerals and emergencies. His sushi restaurant – in a grotty subway in Tokyo that seats only 10 along a thin counter – is perhaps the finest in the world and has won three Michelin stars.

他讨厌假期,只有遇到丧事或急事时才休工。他的寿司店坐落在东京一座破旧的地铁站里,区区10个座位沿着狭窄的柜台排开,但这里可能是世界上最好的寿司店,还赢得了米其林(Michelin)三星级的评分。

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